by Shane Conto, Staff Writer
There is a lot you can learn about people from their eating habits, isn’t there? You can look at the food they eat. The company they keep. The places that they dine. In The Menu, director Mark Mylod takes a script from Seth Reiss and Will Tracy and brings audiences into the most high-end restaurant experience imaginable. Heck, it is on a private island! They also only have 12 diners for one evening. I can guarantee you that most of you reading this article will never experience a meal quite like this (myself included).
But isn’t that the charm of it all? The setup is probably the most interesting part of the film — Mylod delivers one of the best first acts this year. There is a craft and subtlety in which the cast of characters are introduced, their dynamics developed, and the mystery of this secluded evening are weaved together. Reiss and Tracy do plenty of heavy lifting in about 30 minutes of film, as they give the audience a whole cast of characters to enjoy, while leaving the core enigma (the chef) at arm’s reach. This film knows exactly how much to give the audience to work with and how much to keep to itself. But the best part is figuring out when the next wave comes in. The reveal of what is going on might not be as fascinating as the setup, but it is hard not to feel connected and engaged throughout the film.
What else can Reiss and Tracy pack into this film? This film is a vehicle for plenty of satire and commentary. The most obvious is the ever-evolving world of foodies and our society’s fascination with food. There are plenty of laughs injected throughout the film, but that does not take away from the impressive display of food. The film feels like a parade of food porn intermixed with social commentary. There are some obvious overtones centered around classism. The film is not subtle in that regard, as the diners and staff are in quite the divide (with Anya Taylor-Joy’s character right at the center). There are some interesting perspectives thrown in about critics and criticism in different fields of art (including food).
With plenty of sharp work on television, what does Mylod bring to the proceedings with this feature film? The Menu is hilarious from start to finish. There were plenty of big laughs in my theater, which only had a handful of people in it. There is a nice mix of sharp dialogue, physical comedy, and visual gags to keep those laughs fresh and coming. Along with buckets of dark humor, there is plenty of tension injected as well. Mylod makes the most of the tension, as he is even able to make occasional claps play off like jump scares better than most horror films. Mylod creates is a constant feeling of being on the edge of your seat and includes steady moments of biting humor.
With plenty of tools at their disposal, does the cast deliver as well? Taylor-Joy is a rock at the center of this flick, helping the audience anchor into the action. She is charming, relatable, and alluring. Ralph Fiennes might have an odd accent, but his awkward and eerie presence is something to behold along the way. Nicholas Hoult is a despicable piece of crap from the moment you see him on screen, and you cannot help but hate his guts from the start. The rest of the cast are pitch perfect, delivering exactly what they need to. Hong Chau is imposing, Janet McTeer is pompous, Paul Adelstein is a sycophant, John Leguizamo is a joy to watch, and Arturo Castro is a hilarious addition.
Does The Menu deliver on the promise of its compelling premise? This is the dark and biting experience we could use right now. There is so much to say about our society today and plenty of laughs to offer up. Mylod, the cast, and writers are all working to deliver a crazy experience worth taking.
Score: 9/10
The Menu is currently playing in theaters
You can follow Shane Conto on Twitter, Instagram, and Letterboxd